
I haven’t seen any rabbits in the small village of Carces, except on the menu, so I’ll give you the ‘Life’ version of this my little word-stacks today.
I’ve been here only two days and now I see why my friends said, “You may not return.” I thought to myself, ‘You just don’t know the love of a good rabbit, if you did you wouldn’t say that.’ But, I must tell you that this place is completely mesmerizing. I’m getting obsessed. Not to mention how hypnotic the winds of the Mediterranean Sea are.
I just may have to have my rabbits sent on some Animal Airbus. If there isn’t one, there should be. A big ol’ airplane that serves those edgy, modern animals set to visit their humans all over the world--completely equipped with treats and people who wait on animals. I think this will happen in my lifetime. I am hopeful.
BACK TO PROVENCE
For those of you who don’t know, Betsy and Ken Kobre of SF Ca (these people know how to LIVE, I want to be just like them when I grown up) have offered me their incredible three-story villa that is seated in the heart of Carces, South of France just above Toulon and Marseille in exchange for a painting. See their beautiful website with photos and their artists who have passed through like me.
I’ve been to France before, but not the South of France, only Paris. In the past 48 hours I've had experiences with the food, the wine, the men, the dogs, the pigeons,the language, the architecture, the winds from North Africa, the drivers, the sea, the very fun French people to mention just a few. I'll begin with the pigeons.
FRENCH PIGEONS
The pigeons don’t have self confidence issues here. They belt out their coo so loudly, they sound like owls--even in the strong winds of the Med. They are loud and fat and they look at you like you owe them. Entitled. They are Euro pigeons with American attitudes! It’s not just the French pigeons either--they are the same everywhere in Europe. Venice, Florence, Amsterdam, maybe not so much in Transalvania where there are probably homeless vampires that feed on pigeons. The pigeons probably don’t want to be noticed as much there. The pigeons are probably skinny and humble there with soft voices.
The pigeons here are sort of like the French men. Completely in your face with their hunger, but magnificent and noticeably charming at the same time.
FRENCH MEN
I came into Carces after 18 hours of travel. I didn’t sleep a wink on the plane. I got lost immediately. My phone didn’t work here. I spotted this man walking around the village whistling and smiling. I finally gave in after circling him a couple times and asked for help. I'm not sure what he thought but he immediately put his head into the car and looked at my legs. I pushed his head back out of the car and he laughed. I asked him, “Où est l'avenue Ferrindad?”
He spoke fast French. I began to use my hands. That universal sign language that looks apish and silly but does the job.
I got out of the car. He lead me to the street I was looking for.
He wore a white chef shirt that smelled like laundry detergent. He was a large and handsome man. He laughed at me (just the first of many) when I spoke French and would put his hand in my hair and say things I didn’t understand.
Finally, after he asked me how long I would be here, did I have family? Did I have a petit amie (boyfriend) or mari (husband)? I said, both of course. But he pressed on. He wanted me to go out with him on Thursday night. I said, no, Je suis ici pour peindre et visiter --I’m here to paint and visit-- he laughed and said Ce soir puis? Tonight then? It was midnight. I said in broken French. I am going now, you go this way and I'll go that way. “seul?” he said, amazed. Alone? Oui, yes, seul. “No problem he said and then went on for another 5 minutes—something about how lovely I am and something about my curls. I tapped him on the shoulder to interrupt him and put my head on my hands and yawned and closed my eyes. He laughed hard and got it. He kissed my on both cheeks, and we said our goodbyes.
The next morning I woke up early and went out to find a bakery. As I approached the bar that served alcohol, tobacco and espresso, another French man stood there on the corner. I looked like a bottom feeding crawdad with a perversity of red hair, I swear to god--I was barely awake. But this man looked like he wanted to eat me alive. I hadn’t even brushed my teeth. He followed me all morning as I did my stuff. I was amazed.
CARCES VILLAGE RESTAURANTS
Last night, Easter Evening, all the restaurants were closed except Le Saigon. I was the only one there. I waited until the owner was done sweeping the floor. He gave me a menu. I gasped. There were illustrations of ducks standing up like people with their wings around each other in a buddy sort of gesture and below it an illustration of baby pigs suckling their mother, and under that all the pork dishes. The shrimp looked like a shrimp. Just laying there like it was already dead so I ordered the shrimp.
I’m sitting now in a quaint restaurant that serves mostly duck and fondue. It’s called the L’oie du bois (The Goose of Wood?). The waiter speaks and little English, and I speak a little French and the crowd behind me keeps laughing at my French. The waiter assures me they are laughing at him because they know him. In our conversations, I’ve learned that he listens to Blues in English only, he was a graphic designer for 15 years and the previous owners are artists as well. They draw. When I said ‘Moi, Aussi’ – Me Too, regarding the graphic artist for 15 years, and that I am here this week to paint and draw mostly, he seemed not impressed. Sometimes, I am very aware of my American-ness here. I wonder, are we trained in some way to be touchy feely, empathetic, and say things like ‘me too’ as a branching connector to others.
DESOLE -- 'SORRY' IS NOT A POPULAR WORD HERE.
I do know we say ‘I’m sorry’ a whole lot. I haven’t yet heard the phrase, Je suis désolé (I’m sorry) here—yet it seems to come up like a rite of passage in America, maybe even a weapon, a eradication of guilt, permission to trample. You see this in Peets or the grocery story sometimes. A person jumps another in line or spills on them while reaching for the half and half. Or you hear “sorry” in conversation where people are trying to be demure to connect. But it’s used a lot in our society. I had no idea how much. But here, in France it feels simply unwise to say it.
In fact, for instance, this group that keeps laughing at my French, well I waved them away and said, C’est Bon – it’s good, it’s fine, go away. And, they laughed more. Now I have their attention. When I said to the waiter “I’m sorry” (for not speaking better French) he looked down like he was embarrassed I had said it and the group behind me buried their faces in their food and seemed to pretend I hadn’t really said that. “I’m sorry” is clearly an act of tainted pride, an embarrassing thing. You just don’t do it here. And I find that as liberating as all the imperfections.
THE IMPERFECTIONS ARE LIBERATING
Walking to this restaurant, the smell of wood smoke and burnt cheese in the air, the loud creaking sounds of shutters closing and my heels clicking loudly on the brick. People live in heavy stone, so heavy, so old. I passed an old French prison, littered with beer bottles, plastic cups, but no gum that I could see on the ground.
This town is full of its own reality. Its own smells and sounds and people are more than tolerant. This is IT for them. This is how it’s always been. Seems a bit obvious to say that. Except I was raised in California. California where change is a religion of sorts--imperfections worked on, covered and tweaked. The power to transform reality into something new is quite exciting in California. So, this stone that will always be here and always was with its musty smells and the streets of creaky sounds is somehow a comfort--exciting in a different way. Like a film with a really good writer who knows how to write it so unto itself that we can’t help but fall completely and utterly in love with the story no matter the content.
I love California. I love the oak trees, the smell of eucalyptus, the acorns on the ground, and even the grumpy people driving Cayenne SUV’s and honking at me for getting in their way when I ride my bike. I know where they are coming from. They worked hard for where they are, right? Here, that same attitude comes out in the pigeons. And it works. Damn it if I don't want to buy them freshly baked bread from one of the 4 bakeries in this village of 2500.
FRENCH DOGS
The dogs speak French!
When I tried the same words in English only a quizicle look.
A woman was out walking her dog with her father and she told her dog to turn left ‘La Gauche.’ Later when I saw the dog and she was in the market. I said, ‘go left’ – the dog looked at me quizzically and froze.
Maybe ‘left’ sounded like arret! Stop. But English made no sense to this dog, that’s for sure.
THERE IS SO MUCH MORE TO SAY
I’ve gone on too long.
Tomorrow night, Le Val for dinner, more painting all day and Thursday, Friday, Nice and Eze. But I’m so enjoying painting and playing with the French people here in these villa. They tease and challenge me sweetly about my language skills. I may skip Spain and keep painting and exploring around here. We'll see.
Bandol, which is near Marseille and Toulon is stunning. The sea was so active it sprayed my windshield as I drove near. I bought some wine, it was only four dollars. An incredible Cote du Rhone red.
The sense of freedom here is tangible. It’s wild in that way that you can be when you really trust someone. Europe has always felt that way to me--unto itself, wild, wild, wild like the wind, and old as the sea.
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